Stories from London and Brighton

Whew! Here we are sitting with Russell at the kitchen table in his and Sally’s flat. Sally has gone to do some work, but not before we had a cup of tea, which happens several times a day here. It is nice, sitting together and sharing tea and conversation. The window is cracked and it is lightly drizzling outside. It is summer here, and I would estimate the temperature to be in the 60’s at most, with a cool sea breeze. Russell and Sally live in Brighton which is about an hour’s drive south of London on the coast. The “sea” is the english channel, separating us from France by about 40 miles of water. It is a block’s walk to the sea which has a beach of smooth, round rocks, mostly black and white with some red, an inch or three across. The weather might be considered dreary if you lived here, but to a visitor it is cool and romantic. The streets are paved with brick, and the people are very liberated. Brighton is sometimes called the San Francisco of Britain, very friendly to strange people of all sorts. Yesterday, before walking along the beach we watched England beat Equador in the world cup, which is huge here. Everyone is tuned into the games (matches) and discussing them everywhere you go.

We arrived here yesterday after three days in London. London is a huge city and very old. When we arrived at Heathrow, after sleeping the best we could on the overnight flight, we went straight to the train station without leaving the airport. When we got off the train and finally emerged from the underground we were within spitting distance of the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. They were rising up right in front of us and the river Thames (tim) is right there. We then saw Westminster Abbey, a huge church designed by Sir Christopher Wren and finished just before London burned in 1666. We went to Trafalgar’s square and looked for The Chandos on Hank’s recommendation, but had to eat before we could find it. We ate in a pub, and I ordered fish and chips. As a side I had my choice of peas or mushed peas, which I thought was very funny. I chose peas. The meal was not so good; we have had much better since. Once nourished, we soon found The Chandos which is a great freehouse. A freehouse is a kind of pub that is less corporate and more local, serving several varieties of beer that come all from the same brewery. The Chandos is a Samuel Smith freehouse. Downstairs there are booths with walls in between that go almost all the way to the ceiling, so basically you go into your own little room to drink your beer. It is very cool. Upstairs there are little couches built into the window sill so you are sitting out over the street looking out the window. On our first visit we had a pint downstairs, the next day, upstairs.

The hotel we stayed at was really more of a bed and breakfast, with only seven rooms and a very narrow staircase that spans four floors. On the bottom level is the office/dining room with three four-top tables all set with tablecloths, and in the morning set with dishes for a full English breakfast. When you arrive for breakfast orange juice is already poured in glasses and you choose a seat. Your silverware is set with an open space for your plate which will arrive later. To the left is a small plate for toast and up top is a saucer with an upside down teacup. The woman who is working that morning (one of three) approaches you and asks 1. tea or coffee?, 2. brown toast or white? 3. corn flakes or musli? 4. Sausage, bacon, eggs, and beans? She then proceeds to make your breakfast in the attached little kitchen and bring it out as four courses. Bacon is more like a cross between bacon and ham, and the sausages were I have to say a bit scary for me. The beans are just like a can of pinto beans, although probably fresh. The breakfast was very good in taste, and even better as an experience. Most impressive was how one very kind, polite person managed to take orders, cook the food, serve the food, bus the table, and check customers in and out and answer phones all at the same time.

Our second day we climbed “the monument” also designed by Sir Christoper Wren in the 1600’s to commorate the great fire which burned most of London. It is situated in the spot where the fire started in a bakery on Pudding street. The tower is a very tall column which consists entirely of an enclosed narrow spiraling staircase leading to a small observation deck up top. We decided to climb up, and I was a bit concerned if my legs could carry me up all those stairs. That turned out not to be an issue. What was an issue was that after about 15 cirlces had been made it began to get scary. Really scary. My body was just freaked out to keep climbing up and up and up with little room to move. I held tightly to the banister, on the other side of which was a hole down the middle going down, down, down. The stairway gets so narrow near the top that you can’t turn and you have to really squeeze and lean over the edge to let someone coming down pass. Finally we reached the top and stepped out onto the observation deck and had a fantastic view of the city! On the way down, I passed youngsters wimpering and climbing on all fours and hugging the outside edge. It was quite an accomplishment, for something that only took a few minutes and was well worth it for the view and the thrill. After, my legs were shaking from the exertion and the nerves, and I had to sit for a while.

We then went to the Borough Market which is a huge farmer’s market. This was one of the best things I have ever seen in my life. Fresh fruits and vegetables, every kind of handmade olives, breads, cheeses, sweets, wine, fish, meat, anything you could want. We bought stilton, vinegared garlic cloves, olives, foccacia with herbs and goat cheese, cherries, a peach, homemade fudge (which was more like crystalized sugar candy) and a great Rose wine. All of this we took to St. James’ park for a long relaxing picnic. I really wanted to see black swans, because somewhere in my life I got it in my head that there were black swans in London, and i had a hunch we would find them at St. James’ park. They were there along with many other exotic birds. The park is huge with huge lawns, huge trees, all sorts of people including lots of lovers on romantic outings, and a long lake along the center. We had our picnic under one tree with the lake in front of us. We could turn around and see Buckingham palace behind us. We drank wine, ate, read, even napped. The wine we had was refreshing, not heavy, perfect for an afternoon picnic, well recommended.

The only disappointment I’ve had so far is that on the surface anyway, England is not all that different from the states. I had psyched myself up for culture shock and had to adjust to things being less new than I expected. I think that once we leave the metropolitan areas, and get into the countryside, and also out of England, (our cultural ancestor), on into Amsterdam, Wales, Ireland, Scotland or wherever we will go I will get to have a bit more culture shock to satisfy my thrill-seeking. While all that is true, I must add that walking in one block of London one hears several different languages and many English accents, so there is more diversity here.

Before all of this we were in Chicago (my first visit) where I met Dan, Nick, and Mike: great guys and great friends of Mark’s that I have heard many stories about. They were all very cool, and I liked them a lot right away. Chicago has the feel of a huge city with lots of skyscrapers and foot traffic. I especially liked our hotel the swissotel which had great views of lake michigan and downtown chicago. we went to the Shedd aquarium which was fantastic, and to a cubs-astros game at wrigley field which was beer-a-rific besides getting to be in this historic ballpark. Chicago gets a huge thumbs up from me.

And finally I will report on Mark’s brother Matt’s marriage to Kate which we attended in Dubuque, Iowa. The wedding was great, in a beautiful cathedral. Kate and Matt were both glowing and beautiful. All the family was together which was so nice. Mark pulled off his best man duties like a pro and looked so handsome in his tux. And me and everyone else was full of joy at the uniting of these two amazing people.

That’s all for now. Much love wherever you are and whatever you are doing!!!! -Asenath