Our Arrival in Bombay

Hi! We are in India! We arrived in Bombay the night before last and had a very smooth transition. It was 1am, but there was a representative from fulbright waiting with our name on a card, and he gave us a ride to the hotel fulbright had booked for us. By indian standards, it is a fancy hotel, and it is really nice. It is right on the seafront, which is the fancy downtown part of Bombay. When I say fancy, downtown, don't get the wrong idea. It is just so vastly different here. By our standards, things are chaotic and run-down. But that isn't right either. Things would seem run down if they were in the states, but here they don't. Everything is very lively! Starting with the traffic, which is comprised mainly of cabs it seems. Lanes, lights, these are just very loose guidelines. For the most part there are lots of people and cars and some bikes just all going along together in the city streets. Unless you saw it, you would never believe that it works so well. Anytime a car gets near another car or pedestrian it give the horn a little tap to say "I'm here" and everyone just goes around each other and gets out of each other's way. When we arrived at our hotel, there had been a mistake in booking and we didn't have a room for that night. After talking to the night deskman for a while he ended up giving us an empty room "off the books" so to speak, meaning he charged us much less than the regular price and kept the money himself. In our world that would be corrupt, but it really isn't that way over here. Some part of everything is under the table, greasing the wheels. It's all sort of out in the open and actually kind of fun. Just different, how in some places you bargain for what you buy. You do that here, too, and you also give a little money to whomever and they do a little favor for you, like save you money or get you from here to there. Does that make sense? So, I got a taste of that first thing, and we got into a very comfy hotel room. The room had tall ceilings, no windows, but was clean and had huge glass double doors leading out onto a big balcony where we could watch the traffic and on the other side of the road, the palm lined bay. Yesterday morning we woke up and went out to buy our train ticket. The streets are full of every kind of stall and stand selling things, cab drivers calling out for riders, people walking every which way and cars zooming around and honking. There are banyon trees everywhere with their long roots hanging down from their canopies. Everything looks and feels totally different.

Bombay is a huge city with 17 million people in it, and I have seen only 4 or 5 other white people in the two days we have been here, so we attract a decent amount of attention. People are just curious so they look, and there are beggars on the streets who guess that we have money so they come up. It isn't overwhelming to me. I give a little if I have small denominations on me. But alot of times I just politely say no, but you have to be persistent, because the homeless don't just sit there and let you pass, they walk with you and you have to get rid of them. The thing about them is, to me almost all the beggars we have seen seem totally sober, quite clean, and very bright and alert, especially the children. Last night a few children followed us, begging, and we didn't have anything to give them, but I engaged them and smiled at them and they were just so beautiful and smiling back. They laugh and play and their eyes dance. These are "untouchables", I guess, but to have these beautiful children walking with us, I couldn't help myself and when they reached out to me I held their hands. Most of the kids were about ages 4-7, and I held the hand of one little girl on each side of me. They were delighted, and I felt that this meant more to them than money. Not in a sad, pathetic way; they were vibrant and having fun, behaving like children. It felt that this was different and fun for them to be able to walk and play with these foreign people. The little girl on my right was especially sweet, and while I held her hand, she smoothly moved so that I had my arm around her shoulder, holding her outside hand while she put her inside arm around my waist. A little crowd of children started to form, and some of the boys were dangling off mark's arms in front of me and the girls. He was not so into this at first, but followed my lead for the time being. The thing is, these are street kids, and you have to take care not to get sick here, so there are real reasons not to have them hanging on you, but in my momentary assessment, there didn't seem to be any real danger. When a little girl who I'm sure was not yet three joined us, I let go of the hand of the girl on my right to take the smaller child's hand. This made the first girl grab hold around my waist with both hands and there she stayed while I held the hands of the other two. We walked all this way in a crowd of 8 or so children while the ones who weren't attached cartwheeled and everyone interacted and smiled the brightest smiles I have ever seen. Also in the crowd were two women with babies. We didn't give money to anyone this time, having given away alot already, but I felt that the children and the women quite enjoyed themselves. When we went into the hotel, we immediately stripped off and scrubbed ourselves in the shower (again, not that the kids looked or smelled at all dirty, just being extra careful). So, I don't know! I don't think i will allow things to go that far in the future, but i have to say it was one of the most delightful experiences of my entire life. It's just being here for the first time I am so unsure. I want to have a full experience and get swept up in joy where I find it, but I also want to be safe, and I've read warnings about diseases you can get here from unsanitary conditions, like the ones these kids must live in. It sucks to even think about not feeling safe to touch people, especially children.

Earlier in the day we went to the train station and bought our ticked to Trivandrum. Our train leaves at 11:00 tonight. (We are 11 and a half hours ahead of you, so that means 11:30 am your time.) We got a good ticket easily, and Mark was once again amazed at how smoothly everything has gone for us on this trip. It really has all been falling into place perfectly. I went shopping yesterday for indian clothes and they are so beautiful! I am no where near ready to wear a sari, which is somewhat complicated, so i started with the easier salwar kameez. (I'm probably spelling these indian words wrong) The outfit consists of sort of pajama pants (churidar), a long shirt (kurta) and a scarf (dhupata). Those are the best translations into our articles of clothing, but, of course, these are unlike anything we really have. I had to learn how to shop and wear even these simple clothes. We went to a store called FabIndia, and it was so great! I had a very helpful young salesperson who helped me pick out and mix and match outfits, and it is incredible. I feel so good in these clothes! The fabrics and colors are gorgeous, the clothes are so comfortable and beautiful at the same time! I feel feminine and dignified and beautiful and natural in a way no clothes have ever made me feel before. I can't tell you how much I love wearing these clothes!

Lastly, the food! We had two meals yesterday, both of them consisting of the absolute best food and best service i have ever had in my life. And, like everything here, without much expense. I don't understand yet, what we had, so I will do my best to describe it quickly here, because I need to get going. Our first meal had a round metal tray with about 6 little round bowls on it. In the center somebody was always coming around placing rice or flat breads or crispy breads. In the bowls somebody was always coming around placing more curries and soups and other delicious spicy concotions. Everything is vegetarian and delicious! You basically use your bread, rice, and hand to scoop up some of the tasty stuff, and there you go. OK, mark tells me this meal is called Thali. People just keep bringing more and more, including deserts, and all kinds of wonderful things. Our second meal was more like in the states, where you choose an entree from the menu, and that is what you get. I had palak paneer (spinach and cheese, but much much better than it sounds for those who have never had it), and again, everything I taste here is the best i have ever had.

So, just to say hi! and that we are here and doing great. Next time you hear from us we will probably be in trivandrum, our new home. Then I will be able to use our own computer (we are at an internet place now, which is just a little room with about 10 computers you can use to get online). Then I can post pictures, etc. Thanks for all your comments and support. We are having a ball. Now on our way to get some food and meet with some fulbright people. Then going book shopping for mark, and eventually to the train station. Love, Asenath